day III: the pilgrimage to phnom kulen
By Phatry Derek Pan
Yabbing beyond the wee hours did not deter us busy bodies to wake up bright and early this Saturday morning. After all, it’s not everyday I get to visit the birthplace of the Angkor civilization – Cambodia’s most sacred mountain – Phnom Kulen. It is here in 802 on the peak of the mountain; King Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java, giving birth to modern-day Cambodia.
At the cry of the morning rooster, we speed raced out our old school Corolla and off our adventure began. Driving on nice paved road, we passed through the Angkor Archaeological Park where we noticed truckloads of waving teens smiling as they try to catch the attention of onlookers passing them. The kids would squirt water from their bottles as Tony and I could only make monkey faces and wave back in retaliation.
Less than an hour into our drive, we stopped off the national road to a traditional Khmer village. Because the road leads to Phnom Kulen, I can see how tourism has affected this once sleepy community. Our first step off the car, a flock of young kids rush to our direction. My krama wearing, Tony’s blinged out wardrobe, and a non-Khmer Susan; what more could we ask to attract attention?!?
The kids had a rainbow of kramas and flowers (out of some fruit shell) for sale. We had our breakfast there under a simple roof and bench set-up. For two thousand riels, we had a bowl of authentic nom banjok, a Khmer dish that consists of long thin white noodles with yellow curry like sauce on top. No, it’s not the Khmer version of spaghetti! I bought a couple kramas as I waved my good-byes to the beautiful smiling kids.
Smooth concrete now transform into red dusty dirt road. Peering in the distance is Phnom Kulen! Alas, we are nearing our destination. The spiral road leading to the foot of the mountain comes to a complete stop as we approach the entrance. Susan had to purchase a ticket for a whopping $20, whereas, us Khmericans, paid a thrifty 2000 riels (USD $0.50).
I anticipated traffic congestion, but did not expect it to such magnanimous magnitude! A thirty kilometer trip could easily be accomplished within 20 minutes, but not during Khmer New Year celebrations. In 56 modem like pace on a slim two way road, we lost patience half way up. Many locals have already started walking on foot; which served a faster medium than the four wheel machinery. We could not resist either.
I grabbed my backpack equipped with the essentials – a water bottle, camera, journal book, couple pens, krama, a swimming short and towel – and off in my Uncle Ho tire sandals trekking up to the peak.
In common Cambodian anarchy, thousands make the pilgrimage fighting the madness and confusion that engulfs the area. At the apex, locals would pay homage to a sacred temple where a large reclining Buddha structure resides. Vendors lined the path selling atypical touristy items: jewelry made of precious bones and stones, BBQ baby monkeys, and other tidbits uncommon at the temple confines of Angkor. Instead, I restocked up with water and changed for Khmer riels of 100. I am not going to make the mistake of donating dollars at every temple spot, it adds up fast!
I reached the top after climbing a long series of cemented stairs. First thing after taking off my sandals, I washed my face using sacred water that spewed from a well. It was ice chilled. Barefooted, I walked in crammed space to light incense and make money donations to various shrines and monks. One of the many attractions was a large snake that young kids petted. Naturally scared, I built the courage to touch the reptilian. (This new found strength might be due to my previous Sihanoukville trip where I had cobra blood whisky concoction and cobra meat soup). I did not have the patience, however, to walk up the stairs to the sacred temple because of the traffic. My view at the present was unbearable to imagine.
So we left the area and took a comfortable walking cruise along the river. Our goal was to head towards the waterfall for a swim before we have our late lunch. It was already 2 PM; the crowd was still growing by the second.
Clustered together are groups of families situated all along the stream where sets a tarpaulin mat and a cooler with food and beverages for picnicking. Young kids and adults could be seen running around and playing in ice cool shallow water. We continued strutting through the madness; extra attentive to our friends. We did not want to get separated and lost. About 25 minutes later, we found our bungalow where we took a breather and laid our belongings.
I changed into my swimming trunks by using a room rented for 500 riels (USD $0.12). Susan, Tony and I left the bungalow and walked down a long series of wooden stairs. It was quite a descent and a challenge due to its slippery nature. I could hear the water roaring louder and louder but the thick marshy greenery added to the climax before finally reaching the foot. There it was – the majestic Phnom Kulen waterfalls!
I can’t swim and for much of my life, been terrified of water beyond the chest level. But fortunately, the large pond area where hundreds of kids and a few dozen adults dipped in to, the water level was only around my hips. Regardless though, I was a bit weary walking inside.
Tony and I courageously climbed over a dozen of overgrown pebbles to get closer to the velocity of the raging falls. Photographers flock taking souvenir pictures of us re-enacting fighting scenes depicted on the walls of Angkor. With hanuman style poses characterized by its arching juxtaposition, kids naturally jump to look in our direction. Twenty snapshots later, the two of us meditated in Buddha style fashion under the waterfall, focusing and filtering out every sound. A tough challenge, I might add.
My once indestructible tire sandals gave up as the right shoe snapped while walking up towards our bungalow. We ordered a late lunch at around 4 PM that consisted of a BBQ chicken with thinly sliced sour mango and fish sauce, deep fried battered squid, beef skewers, spicy papaya salad, and an array of fresh vegetables. It was finger licking delicious!
At this time, pretty much of the crowd had dissipated. Young scavengers in their large empty rice bags have already begun searching for coconut shells and used bottle waters to resale. We finished our meal, called our driver just in time before sunset had befallen. We snapped a couple group pictures with the remaining amount of 100 riels found in the crevices of our pockets. I bargained last minute for a Buddha necklace made out of white stone or bone. Our day adventure had come to a relaxing conclusion and off we cruised back to Siem Reap city.
This was my first trip to Phnom Kulen and surely a memorable one to add to the rich collection of travel adventures in Cambodia.
The author can be reached at info at phatrypan dot com or 016 665 779.
Copyright, Phatry Derek Pan, 2006.
This really is an interesting traveloque. A backdrop of rural life and fact of ancient history are particularly beautiful pieces.
Hi Phatry!
I’ve been to Phnom Kulen once and wish I could be there again. Reminds me of good times and kick ass pictures.
Thanks for the story. I enjoyed it very much. To bad the crowds were terrible, the temple and forrest top is a sight to see.
Hope you’re doing well. Stay safe.
-Cheath
Seattle, WA USA
I like it keep it coming…
Tell me more about this dark, shadowy, “tony” figure. He sounds interesting.
Andrew
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
My emended version:
Tony “Re-al” Roun, 27, is a Khmerican from Lowell, Massachusetts.
Originally the core member of the trio known as SEASIA
(www.seasiamusic.com), an all Khmer hip-hop pop. They’ve pushed out an album, Rise of the Angkorians in late 2003 and Tony’s fifth trip in Cambodia has been to collaborate with expats in a wide-ranging sampling of culinary delights, in addition to his investigative reporting into the efficacy and structure of Phnom Penh’s so-called “nightlife.” He has also conducted groundbreaking research into the trafficking of imported wines and spirits which has made an immediate impact on the stock room of many fine restaurants. He has fully immersed himself into the Khmer lifestyle–seizing the opportunity to sleep during the traditional and authentic afternoon hours. His stay in Phnom Penh is temporary and he’s scheduled to depart late June and return around early winter.
Really cool story Patree! It’s quite a standard day at Phnom Kulen, I remembered doing the same things, except imitating monkeys fighters from the Angkor wall carvings (another idea of Tony I presume…the guy is a str8 descendant of those monkeys! Lol), I didn’t get Day I and II tho….
Keep sending me your stories, I love the way they are written…
Cheers
Visal
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
i visited phnom kulen during my trip in dec/jan. it was wonderful! your writing nicely describes the atmosphere- makes me feel like i’m there again! =D
you write for a khmer paper? that is so friggin cool! omg i’m so jealous. =) major props to you!
Thanks, Phatry, for the cool story. I have been traveling around Phnom Kulen a number of times but never spent much time at the place itself. In fact I was largely ignorant about the Phnom Kulen being the birthplace of the Angkor civilization.
Your report has inspired me and as soon as I return to Cambodia I will visit the place, and make sure to understand its historical significance.
Thanks,
Stefan
Great entry. I can still remember my trip to Phnom Kulen.. Those kids followed us everywhere!
And your description of the food did not help my skipping breakfast this morning.
Keep the articles coming and take care.
Chanta
Amherst, MA USA
Dear Phatry,
Love to swim…..had the best swimming experience yesterday at Kamport Province and somewhere near a relatives’ home where there’s lots of H 2 O falls.
Having lots of fun over here. Best fruit so far is Mongkot. Are you still in P.P ? I thought you already went back to the States? What happened? Too many Cambodian beauty out here (he he he)?
Thank you for keeping me posted….love to read your amazing/creative stories.
Your Sister,
Samantha
Los Angeles, CA USA
Hi Phatry,
After I read your story at Phnom Kulen, it made me reminder at the first time I used to there in 1999. Along road to Siem reip doesn’t easy like this time, many places were destroyed by the war. My family were spend 1 week for travel around Angkor Wat , Angkor Thom , Prask khan temple, Rohat teak, Baray teak thla….especially to Batay Srey Temple and Phnom Kulen. I love the most is Batay srey temple which decorated stand fine stone. As you knew, all of the temples also have a good history related.
When we were find the Phnom Kulen there are many people visited there, we parked car at the foot of mountain then continued to claimed the mountain in distance 8 km by foot someway have to ride a moto as we wanted, because the car way did not rebuild yet. For the old lady and young child, they’re couldn’t walk for long way, fortunately, district people help carry them to the top. But, we’re paid them a money too. On the way, we could see a small road and the forest that most of them are Kulen. My family or other visitor although delighted to see the water fall but should be noted that place are demonstrate effectively, it’s a khmer’s conviction. My mum told me that you must not say something bad in during enjoys there, said only happy and pray for safety. Have you seen the big buddha, 20 meter-long on the top of temple for praying to get a happiness.
Otherwise, I like to read all your message send to me. Thank you!!!
Regards,
Leak
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Lakhena - I’m sure things have changed since your last visit to PK in 1999. For starters, the road is much nice r and parts are paved. And I am pleasantly surprise to see that the area is not too polluted with trash.
I did not have the patience (or stamina) to walk up the stairs for the reclining Buddha. Perhaps another time when traffic is free and open.
I’m glad you enjoy my pieces! Cheers!
ps: Banteay Srey is my fave temple too!
Bong Samantha - Yes, I’m still in PP - chilling & the occasional, work. And no, as naturally beautiful they are, local women is not what keeps me in the country
I hope to connect with you before your departure! Get at p’oun!
Chanta - How’s life treating you? And when are you returning to Cambodia? She misses you dearly!
Odd though, no kids pestered us at Phnom Kulen. Perhaps we came on the occasion of the New Years? But one incident that I left out. While we were enjoying our lunch, a young girl comes to our bungalow carrying a baby . I naturally smiled, said ’suasdey’, and felt the need to give them some Khmer riels. They accepted and walked away. Minutes later, the same girl comes BUT this time, with another adorable baby. You see where this is going, right? I politely ask them to leave. Was that mean of me?
Stefan - I’m glad you enjoyed my latest entry. Day IV which completes the series will provide my reflections of my first Khmer New Year Celebration in Cambodia, with some comparative analysis to my experiences in the States.
Soapie - Som swakom! (Welcome!) What brings you to my blog? I’m guessing an e-mail forward. But yes, I write for the oldest English newspaper in Cambodia called the Phnom Penh Post. If you want to be up-to-date with my writings and articles, shoot me an e-mail and I’ll add you to my growing P-Cirlce listserv. phatry.pan@gmail.com.
Visal - you can find Day I and II by skimming down my blog. Day IV should be out in a matter of days. PS: yeah, it was Tony’s idea for those fighting scenes!
Hi,
I was introduced to your blog from a good friend of mines (Charles Chear) and every time i read your entries, my desire to go to Cambodia strenghtens more and more.
Keep up the great work.
Bobby - Cool, I hope you can make the trip to Cambodia soon! Hit me up if you’re in my neck of the woods. Cheers!
Andy - You are too much! I wonder if Tony will log on and rebuttal. Haha!
Socheath - Hey you!
A delight surprise to hear from you. I hope you’re doine splendid in Seattle! Warm regards!